Summer Shoe Pattern

Summer Shoe Pattern

Materials:

• 1 ball -190 yards/100 grams of Dishie or other cotton worsted weight yarn (crochet.com Dishie Twist Black used here)

• Crochet hook 1.5mm, 2mm and 3.5mm

• 1 pair of flip-flops (I bought mine at Ardene online in black)

• 1 measuring tape (to measure holes to poke)

Steps:

Prepare the Sole:

First you will need to cut off the straps of the flip-flop you are only left with the flat sole. If you would like to keep the plugs and glue them in to aid with waterproofing the bottom you can, but I leave them out because I do not want to feel the different textures.

Then you will poke holes in the sole. I do use my 1.5mm crochet hook to pierce the sole from halfway down up to 0.25” in from the edge on the top surface at a diagonal. The first hole should be situated at the 6 o’clock position, the rest of the holes being 0.5” apart. For my size 7.5 flip-flop there are 47 holes, but they should increase or decrease depending on the size (the pattern will work for any size).

Now we will begin to crochet.

Base Round: 2mm crochet hook. Starting at the hole you punched nearest to the left strap hole; with the sole facing away from you, push your hook from the side to the top through the hole you punched, pull up a loop of yarn, yarn over and pull through your loop. Tie the 2 ends together and leave the starting end as we will crochet over it later.

Ch1, sc through hole, repeat until you reach the starting sc, slst to first sc, turn

Heel: work in turning rows

Change to a 3.5mm hook

Row 1: ch1, sc in each st to the equal height on the other side (29 sc for size 7.5) slst1

Row 2: ch1 skip first st, sc across to last st, slst

Row 3-5: repeat row 2, Finish off

Sides and heel: work in turning rows

You will now attach the yarn on the right side halfway between the heel and the toe. So if the flip-flop is 10” long you will start 5” mark.

Row 1: ch1, sc in each st and chain to the heel piece, work 3 sc on the diagonal edge of the heel, sc in each st of the heel, 3 sc on the diagonal down, sc to same point on the other side, turn

Row 2: ch1, sc in each st

Row 3: ch1, 2 sc in first stitch, sc in each to last, 2 sc in last stitch

Row 4: ch1, sc in each st

Row 5-13 :ch1, sc in each st

Row 14: ch1, slst in each st, finish off leaving a long tail for sewing

Toe: work in turning rounds

Attach the yarn in the marked stitch

Row 1: sc 9 in base st

Row 2: ch1, sc in each st and sc in 2 base st

Row 3: ch1, sc in each st, sc in 2 base st

Row 4-5 : repeat row 3

Row 6-15: ch1, sc2tog, sc in each st, sc in 2 base st (for other sizes continue this row until you have covered the round of the toe of the flip-flip)

Row 16: ch1, sc2tog, sc, sc, dc across until there are 3 st left, sc, sc, sc, sc in 2 base st

Row 17: ch1, sc2tog, sc in each st, sc in 2 base st

Row 18: repeat row 17

Row 19: repeat row 16

Row 20-21: repeat row 17

Row 22: repeat row 16

As you begin to overlap with the heel section make sure you are working overtop/outside of the heel section

Row 23-24: repeat row 17

Row 25: repeat row 16

Row 26-27: repeat row 17

Row 28: repeat row 16

Row 29: repeat row 17

Row 30: ch1, slst in each st, slst in 1 base st, finish off leaving tail for sewing

For smaller/larger sizes adjust the numbers of repeats of the pattern (row 16, 17, 17) until you are able to overlap the sides and toe to sew them together. Then do row 30.

Note: If you notice that you are not approaching the heel portion evenly and that the outer side has more stitches remaining, simply sc in 3 base stitches at the end of a row that works onto the outer side; and then on the next row sc3tog and that will even out the number of rows needed with the inner side.

Finishing

Sew side edges along toe edge using basting stitch then weave in ends.

When stitching I like to go along the toe piece edge, then along the other diagonal edge for lots of support and a smooth finish on the inside.